This wonderful collection of 13 varieties of wild grass plug plants will arrive in a tray of 104 plants. This will cover an area of approximately 21m², planting 5 plants per 1m².
The plugs are young plants, not seedlings, and cost just over 64 pence each. Each individual plug's root volume is approximately 55ccs, with a diameter of 36mm and a depth of 60mm. The top growth will depend on the variety and the time of year.
Below is what you can expect in your collection, depending on availability.
- Meadow Foxtail, Alopecurus pratensis - 60-120cm tall
- Marram Grass, Ammophila arenaria - rhizomatous perennial
- Sweet Vernal Grass, Anthoxanthum odoratum - yellow-green grass 30-45cm tall
- Quaking Grass, Briza media - 30cm tall with quaking seedheads all summer
- Green-ribbed Sage, Carex binervis - creeping perennial that flowers in May-June
- White Sedge, Carex curta - 50cm tall at flowering
- Starved Wood Sedge, Carex depauperata - 30-100cm tall flowering stems and yellow-green leaves
- Glaucous Sedge, Carex flacca - 10-40cm tall creeping sedge
- Carnation Sedge, Carex panicea - 10-40cm tall with brown-purple flowers
- Pendulous Sedge, Carex pendula - 100-150cm tall with cat's tail like flowers
- Flea Sedge
- Cyperus Sedge, Carex pseudocyperus - 90-100cm tall perennial sedge
- Wood Sedge, Carex sylvatica - bright green perennial with 45cm flowerspikes
- Long Stalked Yellow Sedge, Carex viridula - bright yellow-green leaves and lighter yellow flowers
- Crested Dog's Tail, Cynosurus cristatus - 75cm tall tufted perennial
- Tufted Hair Grass, Deschampsia cespitosa - 150-200cm tall at flowering
- Sea Couch, Elytrigia atherica - 100cm tall with glaucous leaves
- Tall Fescue, Festuca arundinacea - 120-200cm tall with 45cm long flower panicles
- Sheep's Fescue, Festuca ovina - 25cm tall with slightly glaucous leaves
- Red Fescue, Festuca rubra - 75-100cm tall flowering in June to August
- Meadow Oat Grass, Helictotrichon pratense - tufted grass 80cm tall when flowering
- Jointed Rush, Juncus articulatus - 20-80cm erect or spreading grass with glossy green leaves
- Bulbous Rush, Juncus bulbosus - remains green all year and produces brown flowers May-August
- Soft Rush, Juncus effusus - 60-120cm tall densely tufted perennial
- Field Woodrush, Luzula campestris - 10-20cm tall flowering rush
- Southern Woodrush, Luzula fosteri - tufted perennial with brown-green flowers
- Woodrush, Luzula sylvatica - 30-40cm large tussocks of strap-like leaves
- Matt Grass, Nardus stricta - 40-60cm densely tufted, wiry grass
- Small Timothy, Phleum bertolonii - 45cm tall and flowers June-July
- Common Reed, Phragmites australis - can grow to 350cm tall
- Rough Meadow Grass, Poa trivialis - 60-80cm tall with rough leaves and stems
- Reflexed Poa, Puccinellia distans - 15-60cm tall perennial forming dense tufts
- Sea Arrow Grass, Triglochin maritima - 15-60cm tall, clump forming grass
- Garden care: Your plug plants should be planted out as soon as they arrive.
- Planting Plugs into Bare Soil: Wildflowers thrive in soils which have a low nutrient content, so it is best to avoid using fertilisers for at least one year before you plant. The area should also be clear of perennial weeds. As a general rule, you should allow 5 plugs to a square metre. Try to plant them randomly, putting 3 of the same species together if you can. The shorter or smaller species e.g. cowslip or centaury look best in clumps of 5, the taller ones like knapweeds or ox-eye daisies look best in groups of 2 or 3 to a square metre. If you want more immediate colour, you can put your plugs in, and then scatter the Cornfield Seed Collection over the whole area. These will give you a good show in the first year, but die out as the perennials wildflowers take hold - just click on the following link to go straight to them.
Cornfield Seed Collection
- Planting Plugs into Grass: First cut the grass as low as you can get it. If there is a ‘thatch’ then scarify it (you need to get the plugs into contact with the soil). There should be no reason to kill the grass first before planting, although very modern, tough lawn mixes may out-compete the wildflowers. In general, if your grass is wild or pre-1970 it will be O.K. to plant straight into it. If you are worried that it is very vigorous, try mowing, removing the cuttings, scarifying, and then rake yellow rattle seed (Rhinanthus minor) into the grass. This is semi-parasitic on grass, and once established it will reduce the lawns vigour by up to 50%. All ancient meadows have this plant.
- When to Plant:The best time to plant is autumn to late spring when the ground is cool and damp, however it is possible to plant at any time of the year as long as the ground isn’t frozen. The main losses are due to drying out before, during or just after planting. Therefore it is essential that the plugs are kept moist at all times if planting during warmer weather. If a dry spell sets in within 6 weeks of planting you must ensure the plants are watered - and watered well.
- How to Help your Wildflowers Develop: Once planted you must keep your plugs watered for at least 6 weeks. If planting into established grass, mow as normal for lawns, but with the blades at the highest setting for the first year. This will help keep the grass under control, whilst letting your wildflowers build up good root systems and basal leaves. Once your plants are obviously established you can stop mowing and let them flower. This should be around the end of July or August of the year after planting i.e. if planted in April, let them flower in July or August of the same year. In the autumn of the first year that they have flowered, mow the whole area, leaving the clippings where they lie for a few days before raking them off. This will allow the seeds to drop from the seedheads, providing more plants in the following year. If you have a mulching mower you can leave the cuttings provided they are green and not dry or woody. Woody clippings will not decompose quickly at this stage and may rot the young plants beneath them.
- On-going Management: In subsequent years you can mow your meadow once or twice a year. The timing of the spring or summer cut is not important - or it can be skipped altogether. Until mid-August, if you mow your meadow it will recover and flower again in around 8 weeks. Therefore, if you have a big event planned, count backwards 8 weeks and mow - it should then look at its best just when you want it to. Always do a cut and clear up in autumn or early winter, and remove all the cuttings (as above) but be aware that many insects and small mammals spend the cold winter months tucked up in the bases of tussocks of dry grass, so try to leave a bit of rough stuff until the spring.